Katatura – A Complicated Relationship

Yesterday I visited Katatura, the former designated “black township” during S. African rule of Namibia (note that Katatura is the “new township”; the old township, known as "Old Location", was taken over by Afrikaners in the 1960s when the government forcibly moved the population to Katatura).

Now Katatura is considered a suburb of Windhoek, with nearly 1/3 of Windhoek's residents calling it home.

My guides Nesi and Ricky spent the day taking me around various areas of Katatura and giving me a bit of a history and sociology lesson. What a learned and a few thoughts:



Me and Nesi outside Mama Mabel's Goats Head Restaurant – yes that's what they serve, and yes its actually not bad!

Nearly all black Africans in Windhoek area have relatives who still live in Katatura; surprisingly, many of their children have not moved away, but have in fact made their fortunes as professionals and built new, modern homes in Katatura.

During apartheid, the main ethnic groups, Ovambo, Damara, Herero, were required to live in separate areas. To this day, some of the older houses still have, O, D, H, etc. painted on the door.



Herero Women in Katatura

Interesting point Nesi made was that almost everyone of his generation was sent out of the country during “The Struggle”, from the 60s through the 80s, most to communist countries who were supporting SWAPO, then the rebels, now the ruling party. That would explain this:



Vive Castro!

Katatura is not quite what I expected. Having seen other “informal settlements”, this one stood out for a few reasons:

No garbage in the streets whatsoever

Paved roads throughout almost the entire area

Running water and electricity, though sometimes in creative ways :)



All in one: The bar and outhouse combo - brilliant!

Greenery and gardens!



Dont' know what these are, but they're everywhere - even in Katatura

Ricky explained the relative prosperity as being a result, in some ways, of the apartheid system:

“Because they kept us separate they felt comfortable in investing in their city, unlike the French in W. Africa, and also recognized the need to “appease” the blacks by providing some basic services. So even though we suffered greatly, especially our parents, now the SWAPO government and the people are benefiting from the infrastructure and economy that grew during the apartheid era – it is a very complicated relationship.”

Tomorrow I begin my observation of the Caprivi secession trial for Lawyers Without Borders, so probably no new posts till later this week.